Driven by the memories and the adventurous time we had on our last hiking trip to Stara Planina (read the guide here), we decided to take another hiking trip down to Western Serbia this time. After seeing many photos of the Uvac National Park, I pleaded for Kristian to take me. Being a good boyfriend that he is, we ventured south for a long weekend in May and saw much more than we bargained for…
We discovered many hidden gems on our trip that we want to share with you, in case you ever want to get to know Serbia’s nature and food culture better. We really recommend this trip for foreigners, Serbians from other parts of the country that still haven’t seen what wonderful places are hidden within their own borders, nature lovers, foodies, camping and hiking enthusiasts, and definitely budget travelers.
Osnova za ovaj članak bile su dve nama vrlo drage i vrlo različite vikend ture – jedna romantična u dvoje, druga prava kamperska sa ekipom. Ovde smo izabrali naše favorite i pokušali da ih spakujemo u jedan super ispunjen produženi vikend. Ako imate viška slobodnih dana, slobodno ovo razvucite na nedelju i više dana ili na nekoliko divnih vikend odmora.
Veče je. Gledamo već treću vremensku prognozu. Gledamo mađarski radar. Na sve strane (sa svih strana) – kiša. Ali ima nešto što me muči više od kiše - onaj inat kada nešto sebi zacrtaš, koji plan pretvara u ultimatum. Šanse za dobro vreme su nam slične kao i našoj Kraljevini 1914., ali jedino na šta se mi obavezujemo jeste vikend ispunjen hedonizmom i čistim uživanjem.
U nekoliko klikova rezervišemo kolibu. Naši planinarski rančevi, pošto su odležali 360 dana na polici u špajizu, sa nestrpljenjem isčekuju novu avanturu. Aktivni veš kupljen na akciji u Decathlonu i planinarske pantalone konačno će imati svrhu. Pakujemo ih u prethodno pomenute rančeve. Ispod njih ostaje beli trag oivičen prašinom. Pakujemo tatinog Švajcarca, baterijske lampe čije baterije samo što nisu oksidirale i kremen koji ne znamo da koristimo. Spremni smo.
We discovered many hidden gems on our trip that we want to share with you, in case you ever want to get to know Serbia’s nature and food culture better. We really recommend this trip for foreigners, Serbians from other parts of the country that still haven’t seen what wonderful places are hidden within their own borders, nature lovers, foodies, camping and hiking enthusiasts, and definitely budget travelers.
Osnova za ovaj članak bile su dve nama vrlo drage i vrlo različite vikend ture – jedna romantična u dvoje, druga prava kamperska sa ekipom. Ovde smo izabrali naše favorite i pokušali da ih spakujemo u jedan super ispunjen produženi vikend. Ako imate viška slobodnih dana, slobodno ovo razvucite na nedelju i više dana ili na nekoliko divnih vikend odmora.
Veče je. Gledamo već treću vremensku prognozu. Gledamo mađarski radar. Na sve strane (sa svih strana) – kiša. Ali ima nešto što me muči više od kiše - onaj inat kada nešto sebi zacrtaš, koji plan pretvara u ultimatum. Šanse za dobro vreme su nam slične kao i našoj Kraljevini 1914., ali jedino na šta se mi obavezujemo jeste vikend ispunjen hedonizmom i čistim uživanjem.
U nekoliko klikova rezervišemo kolibu. Naši planinarski rančevi, pošto su odležali 360 dana na polici u špajizu, sa nestrpljenjem isčekuju novu avanturu. Aktivni veš kupljen na akciji u Decathlonu i planinarske pantalone konačno će imati svrhu. Pakujemo ih u prethodno pomenute rančeve. Ispod njih ostaje beli trag oivičen prašinom. Pakujemo tatinog Švajcarca, baterijske lampe čije baterije samo što nisu oksidirale i kremen koji ne znamo da koristimo. Spremni smo.
Day 1
It was a 5 hour drive from Novi Sad to Zlatibor on a very rainy evening. Nobody in their right mind would head on a hiking trip in this weather, but Kristian. He made a plan to go on the 4th so he was going on the 4th even if it was raining bullets. He's my man with a plan.
First off, let’s make something clear - Zlatibor is a region and much more than the flashy pedestrian zone with expensive bars everyone thinks of. In my opinion, the only reason you should go to the city of Zlatibor is if you have some new expensive clothing you want to show off, or if you want to see the worst example of Serbian culture and messed up values we have in this country. If you’d rather pass, drive a bit farther south passing Zlatibor and exit off the highway toward the village of Ljubiš. About half way, you’ll find a quaint little cabin that is too cute to pass. Book a night in Previja cabin here. When we arrived on that cold rainy night, we lit the fireplace, opened a bottle of wine and enjoyed our evening watching Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban.
Prvi dan
Mala, kratka svađa pred put ne može da škodi. Sad smo stvarno spremni :D Prvo odredište - Zlatibor. Puteva ka Zlatiboru ima bezbroj i svako ima svoj „najbrži“ i „najbolji“, kojim su još njegovi baka i deka, automobilom domaće proizvodnje, sa još minimum jednom familijom i džakom krompira na krovnom nosaču, išli na more. Moj „najbrži“ i „najbolji“ (svakako to nije) jeste preko Šapca, Divčibara i Valjeva. Nailazimo na žutu tablu koja vodi prema turističkom mestu Zlatibor. Kako nismo željni lokala naše folk dive i zujanja autića za decu na gradskom trgu, produžavamo dalje. Žuta tabla koju mi tražimo jeste tabla za Ljubiš, koja se nalazi nekih 15-ak kilometara niže. Od naše kolibe deli nas 4 km asfaltiranog vijugavog puta. Vadimo rančeve, boce vina i osavremenjenu verziju bakinih kolača.
E sad, želim da zamislite savršenu drvenu kolibu, na savršeno zelenom proplanku okruženu savršeno nesavršenim borovima. Zvuči dobro, zar ne? E ova je još bolja. Naš savet je da kolibu rezervišite blagovremeno, pošto je prilično popularna među stranim turistima. Upalite kamin (ne zaboravite da otvorite odžak), otvorite bocu dobrog vina, skinite film sa solidnim recenzijama i bićete zahvalni univerzumu kao da ste sve knjige Lujze Hej naučili napamet. Ukoliko imate više vremena definitivno preporučujemo da Vaš boravak u kolibi produžite i bez žurbe uživate u gurmanlucima i lepotama Zlatiborskog kraja.
It was a 5 hour drive from Novi Sad to Zlatibor on a very rainy evening. Nobody in their right mind would head on a hiking trip in this weather, but Kristian. He made a plan to go on the 4th so he was going on the 4th even if it was raining bullets. He's my man with a plan.
First off, let’s make something clear - Zlatibor is a region and much more than the flashy pedestrian zone with expensive bars everyone thinks of. In my opinion, the only reason you should go to the city of Zlatibor is if you have some new expensive clothing you want to show off, or if you want to see the worst example of Serbian culture and messed up values we have in this country. If you’d rather pass, drive a bit farther south passing Zlatibor and exit off the highway toward the village of Ljubiš. About half way, you’ll find a quaint little cabin that is too cute to pass. Book a night in Previja cabin here. When we arrived on that cold rainy night, we lit the fireplace, opened a bottle of wine and enjoyed our evening watching Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban.
Prvi dan
Mala, kratka svađa pred put ne može da škodi. Sad smo stvarno spremni :D Prvo odredište - Zlatibor. Puteva ka Zlatiboru ima bezbroj i svako ima svoj „najbrži“ i „najbolji“, kojim su još njegovi baka i deka, automobilom domaće proizvodnje, sa još minimum jednom familijom i džakom krompira na krovnom nosaču, išli na more. Moj „najbrži“ i „najbolji“ (svakako to nije) jeste preko Šapca, Divčibara i Valjeva. Nailazimo na žutu tablu koja vodi prema turističkom mestu Zlatibor. Kako nismo željni lokala naše folk dive i zujanja autića za decu na gradskom trgu, produžavamo dalje. Žuta tabla koju mi tražimo jeste tabla za Ljubiš, koja se nalazi nekih 15-ak kilometara niže. Od naše kolibe deli nas 4 km asfaltiranog vijugavog puta. Vadimo rančeve, boce vina i osavremenjenu verziju bakinih kolača.
E sad, želim da zamislite savršenu drvenu kolibu, na savršeno zelenom proplanku okruženu savršeno nesavršenim borovima. Zvuči dobro, zar ne? E ova je još bolja. Naš savet je da kolibu rezervišite blagovremeno, pošto je prilično popularna među stranim turistima. Upalite kamin (ne zaboravite da otvorite odžak), otvorite bocu dobrog vina, skinite film sa solidnim recenzijama i bićete zahvalni univerzumu kao da ste sve knjige Lujze Hej naučili napamet. Ukoliko imate više vremena definitivno preporučujemo da Vaš boravak u kolibi produžite i bez žurbe uživate u gurmanlucima i lepotama Zlatiborskog kraja.
Day 2
We had a morning coffee on the porch overlooking the foggy hills of Zlatibor, discussing our plans for the day ahead. We’ve planned several destinations for today. The winding road took us through scenic backdrops, through - Sirogojno Etno Village, Stopića Cave, Gostilje Waterfalls and we finished the day in Ljubiš village.
We had a morning coffee on the porch overlooking the foggy hills of Zlatibor, discussing our plans for the day ahead. We’ve planned several destinations for today. The winding road took us through scenic backdrops, through - Sirogojno Etno Village, Stopića Cave, Gostilje Waterfalls and we finished the day in Ljubiš village.
Breakfast in Sirogojno Etno Village
Sirogojno village is a small village 25 km from the city of Zlatibor. It became home to the first open-air museum and the best ethno village in Serbia. 40 years ago, the village became well known all over Yugoslavia and the rest of Europe thanks to its women who made the most beautiful wool knit sweaters from Islandic wool with ethnic motifs.
The ethno village is made up of old wood houses that were brought here from various parts of Serbia for visitors to see how the architecture and rural lifestyle differentiated depending on the region the family lived in. Some of these authentic houses are available for guests to rent out for a couple of nights. There is a restaurant offering local specialties like homemade buckwheat pies, cheese, herbal teas, cabbage, lamb under the bell, local plum brandy, etc. The prices are so affordable that you can try everything on the menu without breaking the bank. And we really recommend you do so, because the food is delicious! There is a small improvised market and souvenir shop that you can buy memorabilia and support the locals. We each bought a pair of knit slippers.
Drugi dan
Kafa i po koji preostali bakin kolač na tremu sa savršenim pogledom na zlatiborske pašnjake? Može. Danas nas očekuje lagan dan. Najpre krećemo ka Sirogojnu. Vozimo se divnim krivudavim putem sledećih 20-ak km. „Staro selo“ je muzej na otvorenom u kojem se prikazuje arhitektura, unutrašnje uređenje zgrada, način privređivanja i organizacija porodičnog života ljudi brdsko – planinskih predela dinarske regije. Prostire se na površini od 5 hektara i ima oko 50 objekata koji su dislocirani i preneti iz okolnih zlatiborskih sela. Priključite se grupi Japanskih turista i odslušajte njihovog plaćenog vodiča a onda pravac „Krčma“, koja je savršeno mesto za doručak. Naša preporuka jeste srpska prečica do infarkta – komplet lepinja – pravi način da se započne dan na planini. Nemojte propustiti njihovu heljdopitu, kiselo mleko i sjajne domaće sireve.
Sirogojno village is a small village 25 km from the city of Zlatibor. It became home to the first open-air museum and the best ethno village in Serbia. 40 years ago, the village became well known all over Yugoslavia and the rest of Europe thanks to its women who made the most beautiful wool knit sweaters from Islandic wool with ethnic motifs.
The ethno village is made up of old wood houses that were brought here from various parts of Serbia for visitors to see how the architecture and rural lifestyle differentiated depending on the region the family lived in. Some of these authentic houses are available for guests to rent out for a couple of nights. There is a restaurant offering local specialties like homemade buckwheat pies, cheese, herbal teas, cabbage, lamb under the bell, local plum brandy, etc. The prices are so affordable that you can try everything on the menu without breaking the bank. And we really recommend you do so, because the food is delicious! There is a small improvised market and souvenir shop that you can buy memorabilia and support the locals. We each bought a pair of knit slippers.
Drugi dan
Kafa i po koji preostali bakin kolač na tremu sa savršenim pogledom na zlatiborske pašnjake? Može. Danas nas očekuje lagan dan. Najpre krećemo ka Sirogojnu. Vozimo se divnim krivudavim putem sledećih 20-ak km. „Staro selo“ je muzej na otvorenom u kojem se prikazuje arhitektura, unutrašnje uređenje zgrada, način privređivanja i organizacija porodičnog života ljudi brdsko – planinskih predela dinarske regije. Prostire se na površini od 5 hektara i ima oko 50 objekata koji su dislocirani i preneti iz okolnih zlatiborskih sela. Priključite se grupi Japanskih turista i odslušajte njihovog plaćenog vodiča a onda pravac „Krčma“, koja je savršeno mesto za doručak. Naša preporuka jeste srpska prečica do infarkta – komplet lepinja – pravi način da se započne dan na planini. Nemojte propustiti njihovu heljdopitu, kiselo mleko i sjajne domaće sireve.
Stopića cave
After a delicious breakfast, head over to Stopica Cave near Sirogojno. This limestone cave is considered a natural monument and opened in 2009. A flight of stairs will take you down to the entrance where you will find yourself at a 18 m high and 35 m wide cave entrance. The main attraction here is the 10 m tall underground waterfall and beautifully lit cave decorations. It will take you about an hour to climb down and see the entire cave. The entrance fee is 250 rsd (2 euros).
Posle doručka za šampione, nastavljamo prema Stopića pećini. To je rečna pećina, kroz koju i danas protiče Trnavski potok. Pećina ima impresivni ulaz visine 18 i širine 35 metara, a nalazi se na 711,18 metara (sa dve decimale, kao da je sam predsednik merio) nadmorske visine. Njena glavna atrakcija je podzemni vodopad, visok 10 metara. Iako nije naročito bogata pećinskim ukrasima, ona ima veoma zanimljive bigrene kade, koje se izdvajaju svojom veličinom i dubinom, koja kod nekih iznosi i do sedam metara.
After a delicious breakfast, head over to Stopica Cave near Sirogojno. This limestone cave is considered a natural monument and opened in 2009. A flight of stairs will take you down to the entrance where you will find yourself at a 18 m high and 35 m wide cave entrance. The main attraction here is the 10 m tall underground waterfall and beautifully lit cave decorations. It will take you about an hour to climb down and see the entire cave. The entrance fee is 250 rsd (2 euros).
Posle doručka za šampione, nastavljamo prema Stopića pećini. To je rečna pećina, kroz koju i danas protiče Trnavski potok. Pećina ima impresivni ulaz visine 18 i širine 35 metara, a nalazi se na 711,18 metara (sa dve decimale, kao da je sam predsednik merio) nadmorske visine. Njena glavna atrakcija je podzemni vodopad, visok 10 metara. Iako nije naročito bogata pećinskim ukrasima, ona ima veoma zanimljive bigrene kade, koje se izdvajaju svojom veličinom i dubinom, koja kod nekih iznosi i do sedam metara.
Gostilje Waterfalls
Gostilje village is just a quick drive from Sirogojno as well, and its waterfalls are a definite must see. It is actually a whole formation of several waterfalls along the Katušnica River. The biggest waterfall Vrelo, elevates to an altitude of about 20 meters, making it the biggest in Serbia. This is such a peaceful, colorful and instagramable place. According to a legend, this is where fairies come to bathe. The whole village is surrounded by mountains, pastures, pine trees and is therefore a perfect place for camping as well. The nearby Katušnica river is ideal for fishing and swimming.
Dan nastavljamo kao pravi turisti i krećemo ka sledećoj atrakciji, vodopadima Gostilje, koji se nalaze na istoimenom potoku. Čitavim krajolikom dominira, 20 metara visoki, vodopad Vrelo – jedan od najvećih u Srbiji. Pratimo dalje potok sve do ušća u reku Katušnicu, i uživamo u velikom broju manjih vodopada, slapova i brzaka.
Gostilje village is just a quick drive from Sirogojno as well, and its waterfalls are a definite must see. It is actually a whole formation of several waterfalls along the Katušnica River. The biggest waterfall Vrelo, elevates to an altitude of about 20 meters, making it the biggest in Serbia. This is such a peaceful, colorful and instagramable place. According to a legend, this is where fairies come to bathe. The whole village is surrounded by mountains, pastures, pine trees and is therefore a perfect place for camping as well. The nearby Katušnica river is ideal for fishing and swimming.
Dan nastavljamo kao pravi turisti i krećemo ka sledećoj atrakciji, vodopadima Gostilje, koji se nalaze na istoimenom potoku. Čitavim krajolikom dominira, 20 metara visoki, vodopad Vrelo – jedan od najvećih u Srbiji. Pratimo dalje potok sve do ušća u reku Katušnicu, i uživamo u velikom broju manjih vodopada, slapova i brzaka.
Ljubiš village
The owners of Previja recommended we go to Pećinar restaurant for their grilled trout, so we of course dropped in. This restaurant is the star of the village of Ljubiš or better said - the whole village. The tavern (or locally. referred to as “kafana”) and store on the main square is all owned by the Pećinar family. It’s a miracle they haven’t renamed the village to “Pećinar“ by now. As we found out, people from all over the Zlatibor region come here to eat like lords. You will not find finer Serbian hospitality or rustic cuisine in a 200 km radius. They only have one rule - no quick meals, “just grabbing a bite to eat” sort of nonsense. If you’re in a hurry, they won’t serve you. Seriously. This is as slow as slow food gets.
Sada nam sledi pravi biser srpske gastronomije, mesto koje treba da služi kao pravi primer i zvezda vodilja svakom srpskom ugostitelju ponaosob i celokupnoj turističkoj ponudi Srbije zajedno. Da je ovo mesto postojalo pre 2700 godina, Penelope bi prste izderala od tkanja, pošto bi se Homer ovde zadržao bar još 5 godina. To mesto je restoran Pećinar. Nalazi se u selu Ljubiš i vodi ga porodica Pećinar. Ista ta porodica vodi seosku radnju. I seosku kafanu. Jedino je pošta državna. Porodica se bavi ugostiteljstvom od 1924. godine kada od kralja dobija lično kafansko pravo.
The owners of Previja recommended we go to Pećinar restaurant for their grilled trout, so we of course dropped in. This restaurant is the star of the village of Ljubiš or better said - the whole village. The tavern (or locally. referred to as “kafana”) and store on the main square is all owned by the Pećinar family. It’s a miracle they haven’t renamed the village to “Pećinar“ by now. As we found out, people from all over the Zlatibor region come here to eat like lords. You will not find finer Serbian hospitality or rustic cuisine in a 200 km radius. They only have one rule - no quick meals, “just grabbing a bite to eat” sort of nonsense. If you’re in a hurry, they won’t serve you. Seriously. This is as slow as slow food gets.
Sada nam sledi pravi biser srpske gastronomije, mesto koje treba da služi kao pravi primer i zvezda vodilja svakom srpskom ugostitelju ponaosob i celokupnoj turističkoj ponudi Srbije zajedno. Da je ovo mesto postojalo pre 2700 godina, Penelope bi prste izderala od tkanja, pošto bi se Homer ovde zadržao bar još 5 godina. To mesto je restoran Pećinar. Nalazi se u selu Ljubiš i vodi ga porodica Pećinar. Ista ta porodica vodi seosku radnju. I seosku kafanu. Jedino je pošta državna. Porodica se bavi ugostiteljstvom od 1924. godine kada od kralja dobija lično kafansko pravo.
The Pećinar family has been in business since the beginning of 1924, when Miloš Pećinar received a state right to open a “kafana”. It’s currently owned and operated by the families 6thgeneration. Mr. Boban Pećinar works as the manager and waiter and his wife Marija is the head chef. We met both of them and the other waiter that works the other shift (we went to eat here twice, even though the second time we had to make a huge detour). It’s definitively worth driving the extra couple of kilometers to eat here. The food is as local as it gets – they source all of their produce from local farmers, so the cheese and yoghurt you get is fresh from under the cow, massaged by one of the older grandmas living up on the hill. Tomatoes are from the garden, teas are handpicked and dried and the trout was probably swimming in the fish pond out back just few minutes before you placed your order.
Nas na vratima dočekuje Boban koji nas kao hipnotisane kroz čitavo iskustvo. Kroz nekoliko minuta shvatamo da je Bobanovo prezime Pećinar i da su njegova supruga Marija i on šesta generacija ugostitelja iz Ljubiša. Boban ima autoritet jednak učitelju iz vremena komunizma i ne preostaje Vam druga opcija osim da ga slušate. Kako nam je samo drago što smo ga poslušali to veče. Zagrevamo se za ono što predstoji odličnom domaćom rakijom – za mene šljiva a za g-đicu medovača. Pod Bobanovom dirigentskom palicom meni gubi izvorni smisao i postaje večera od 20 gangova. Ovde se dolazi izgladnjen i bez žurbe. Ovde nema večere bez 3 sata.
Nas na vratima dočekuje Boban koji nas kao hipnotisane kroz čitavo iskustvo. Kroz nekoliko minuta shvatamo da je Bobanovo prezime Pećinar i da su njegova supruga Marija i on šesta generacija ugostitelja iz Ljubiša. Boban ima autoritet jednak učitelju iz vremena komunizma i ne preostaje Vam druga opcija osim da ga slušate. Kako nam je samo drago što smo ga poslušali to veče. Zagrevamo se za ono što predstoji odličnom domaćom rakijom – za mene šljiva a za g-đicu medovača. Pod Bobanovom dirigentskom palicom meni gubi izvorni smisao i postaje večera od 20 gangova. Ovde se dolazi izgladnjen i bez žurbe. Ovde nema večere bez 3 sata.
The menu is simple, just one page of pure comfort food – that’s it. Anything you choose from the menu will be made especially for you. When Boban came to take our order, we listened to his recommendations like the good students we are (or Kristian is), and when he left, we realized he actually came to tell us what he’ll order for us. The evening began with a cold appetizer – a cheese and meat platter enough to feed the whole village along with bread, “kajmak”, salad, polenta, cheese pie and baked potatoes. Yes, this is all one dish. Next came the trout. You know how some fish smell like fish? We found out that not all fish do. This trout needed no spices or olive oil to make its white fluffy meat delicious. As dinner was progressing, one first class plum and honey “rakija” (some call it brandy, some moonshine) ended with five. Once Boban got us tipsy, he found it a good time to mention they had rooms upstairs. Well, we like their food, we thought, we’ll probably like their beds as well. So we ended our night happy and full in Pećinar, sorry, Ljubiš village in a rustic wood room with crisp white bedding.
Marija je pravi čarobnjak i naše reči ne mogu Vam dočarati ukus onoga što je izašlo iz kuhinje. Sve je naravno lokalno i domaće. Krećemo od domaće salate. Folk diva naših suseda je možda videla snijeg u maju ali onakvo povrće sigurno nije. Sledi nam domaća, sveže umešena pita od sira i zelja. Zatim, Ivanjički krompir iz rerne ušuškan ispod zlatiborskog pršuta, praćen savršenim kajmakom. Plata sušenog sira i mlečnih proizvoda nikom nije škodila, pa neće ni nama. Pastrmka na žaru izvađena pre 10 minuta iz ribnjaka iza restorana još manje. Ova pastrmka ima jednu veliku manu: toliko je dobra da drugu nećete hteti da jedete. Sve je naravno praćeno odličnim i nepretencioznim domaćim vinom. Do sača nismo dogurali. Vi budite pametni, dođite više puta i prošetajte se kroz ceo meni. Više puta smo se podsetili kakve su bile šljiva i medovača sa početka večere i odlučili da prespavamo u sjajnom smeštaju iznad restorana.
Marija je pravi čarobnjak i naše reči ne mogu Vam dočarati ukus onoga što je izašlo iz kuhinje. Sve je naravno lokalno i domaće. Krećemo od domaće salate. Folk diva naših suseda je možda videla snijeg u maju ali onakvo povrće sigurno nije. Sledi nam domaća, sveže umešena pita od sira i zelja. Zatim, Ivanjički krompir iz rerne ušuškan ispod zlatiborskog pršuta, praćen savršenim kajmakom. Plata sušenog sira i mlečnih proizvoda nikom nije škodila, pa neće ni nama. Pastrmka na žaru izvađena pre 10 minuta iz ribnjaka iza restorana još manje. Ova pastrmka ima jednu veliku manu: toliko je dobra da drugu nećete hteti da jedete. Sve je naravno praćeno odličnim i nepretencioznim domaćim vinom. Do sača nismo dogurali. Vi budite pametni, dođite više puta i prošetajte se kroz ceo meni. Više puta smo se podsetili kakve su bile šljiva i medovača sa početka večere i odlučili da prespavamo u sjajnom smeštaju iznad restorana.
Day 3
Uvac Special Nature Reserve
We woke up excited about the breakfast ahead. It didn’t disappoint, so again, happy and full we proceeded south to Uvac National Reserve. Like I said, I saw many photos of the famous Uvac meanders or “ the three curves” as Kristian cynically called them, afraid that my choice of nature parks was too commercial and instagramable.
Dan treći
Ustajemo rano, srce puno, želudac ništa manje. Ostatak puta rezervisan je za planinarenje. Manjak volje i proždrljivost ne dozvoljava nam da preskočimo doručak kod Pećinara. Ipak su domaća pita, komplet lepinja i kajmak najbolji prijatelji svakog planinara. Kupujemo slatko i rakiju – valja se. Pakujemo se i krećemo prema Uvcu, koji Ivana, već neko vreme, žarko želi da vidi.
Vozimo se prema Novoj Varoši, nastavljamo ka Sjenici a zatim se odvajamo prema Ivanjici. Sa magistrale se odvajamo nedaleko od sela Krstac, na mestu gde se Kanjevska reka uliva u Uvačko jezero (na oko 8 km od Sjenice prema Ivanjici). Iako sam bio skeptičan i pribojavao se da osim tri krivine (koje smo već videli na Instagramu) i mesta gde su nekad živela tri beloglava supa nećemo videti ništa, prvi metri treka dokazali su da debelo grešim a ženska intuicija se opet pokazala superiornom.
Uvac Special Nature Reserve
We woke up excited about the breakfast ahead. It didn’t disappoint, so again, happy and full we proceeded south to Uvac National Reserve. Like I said, I saw many photos of the famous Uvac meanders or “ the three curves” as Kristian cynically called them, afraid that my choice of nature parks was too commercial and instagramable.
Dan treći
Ustajemo rano, srce puno, želudac ništa manje. Ostatak puta rezervisan je za planinarenje. Manjak volje i proždrljivost ne dozvoljava nam da preskočimo doručak kod Pećinara. Ipak su domaća pita, komplet lepinja i kajmak najbolji prijatelji svakog planinara. Kupujemo slatko i rakiju – valja se. Pakujemo se i krećemo prema Uvcu, koji Ivana, već neko vreme, žarko želi da vidi.
Vozimo se prema Novoj Varoši, nastavljamo ka Sjenici a zatim se odvajamo prema Ivanjici. Sa magistrale se odvajamo nedaleko od sela Krstac, na mestu gde se Kanjevska reka uliva u Uvačko jezero (na oko 8 km od Sjenice prema Ivanjici). Iako sam bio skeptičan i pribojavao se da osim tri krivine (koje smo već videli na Instagramu) i mesta gde su nekad živela tri beloglava supa nećemo videti ništa, prvi metri treka dokazali su da debelo grešim a ženska intuicija se opet pokazala superiornom.
We drove down to Nova Varoš, heading toward Sjenica where we make a turn toward Ivanjica. We exit off the highway to Krstac village where the Kanjevska river flows into the Uvac lake. Just as we were passing through a flock of sheep making our way toward the Družinići village, Kristian confessed that I was right. By the look of his smile, stretching from ear to ear, I knew he wasn’t being just nice. We pass through Kandića Krš Peak and made our way down a narrow road toward an improvised camp site by the lake. We park our car, pack some snacks and head by foot toward a small wooden gate marking the start of the trail.
Probijamo se kroz stado ovaca i sledeća 2 km se krećemo makadamskim putem koji vodi ka selu Družiniće. Obilazimo vrh Kandića krš i spuštamo se užim putem do kampa. Što se kola tiče, „dalje nećeš moći!“. Parkiramo se, pakujemo užinu i vodu, razgibavamo se (po savetima Nade Macure) i spremni smo za pokret. Iznad kampa, primetićete drvenu kapiju od koje kreće uređena staza. Trek je dugačak nekih 14 km i nije tehnički niti kondiciono zahtevan. Više info o treku naći ćete na sjajnom sajtu Staze i bogaze.
Probijamo se kroz stado ovaca i sledeća 2 km se krećemo makadamskim putem koji vodi ka selu Družiniće. Obilazimo vrh Kandića krš i spuštamo se užim putem do kampa. Što se kola tiče, „dalje nećeš moći!“. Parkiramo se, pakujemo užinu i vodu, razgibavamo se (po savetima Nade Macure) i spremni smo za pokret. Iznad kampa, primetićete drvenu kapiju od koje kreće uređena staza. Trek je dugačak nekih 14 km i nije tehnički niti kondiciono zahtevan. Više info o treku naći ćete na sjajnom sajtu Staze i bogaze.
The 14 km trek is nor technically nor conditionally demanding and therefore is suitable for beginners as well. After a few minutes we came across a hanging bridge that leads to Lopiže village. An innocent mistake results in us walking 10 km more, doing a photoshoot with cows and taking part in a village celebration. So unless you’d like to do the same, I advise you to NOT cross the bridge and follow the trail along the right side of the river. With every step we took, we tried to soak in the beauty of our surrounding. If you want to make someone fall in love with hiking, you might as well bring them here.
Pratimo stazu i posle nekoliko minuta stižemo do visećeg mosta koji vodi ka selu Lopiže. Loše tumačenje informacija vodi nas preko mosta i produžava trek za 10-ak kilometara. Ukoliko slikanje sa kravicama i proslavljanje seoske slave sa Lopižanima nisu na vašoj bucket listi vi ne prelazite preko mosta već i dalje nastavljate stazom koja vodi sa desne staze jezera. Krajolik nas svakim pređenim korakom iznenađuje, redefiniše značenje lepog i neprestano mami naše uzdahe. Ukoliko želite nekog da navučete na planinarenje, savetujemo Vam da probate sa ovim trekom.
Pratimo stazu i posle nekoliko minuta stižemo do visećeg mosta koji vodi ka selu Lopiže. Loše tumačenje informacija vodi nas preko mosta i produžava trek za 10-ak kilometara. Ukoliko slikanje sa kravicama i proslavljanje seoske slave sa Lopižanima nisu na vašoj bucket listi vi ne prelazite preko mosta već i dalje nastavljate stazom koja vodi sa desne staze jezera. Krajolik nas svakim pređenim korakom iznenađuje, redefiniše značenje lepog i neprestano mami naše uzdahe. Ukoliko želite nekog da navučete na planinarenje, savetujemo Vam da probate sa ovim trekom.
After a slight uphill climb, we pass the “Ladies Rock”. The terrain started to change and the famous Griffon vultures fly over our heads. They have been declared as an endangered species in Serbia and live only in the Zlatar region. We hike the last few hundred meters of the stone lined trail to the Molitva viewpoint. “If a picture speaks louder than a thousand words, than this view speaks louder than a thousand Instagram posts”, declares Kristian. We snacked and made a few photos to add to my Instagram diary, hoping to motivate others to come see this magnificent place. The meanders of the Uvac river resemble a maze that was formed naturally due to many years of the water punching through the limestone rock.
We took the same trail back, making one last stop to soak in the view. Kristian, aka “the best boyfriend ever”, blew up a lazy bag, opened champagne and a bag of cantuccini biscuits and we called it a successful day while watching the sunset over the Uvac meanders.
Savladavamo malo veći uspon i prolazimo pored tzv. „Devojačke stene“. Teren postaje krševitiji a beloglavi supovi proleću iznad naših glava. Savladavamo i poslednjih nekoliko stotina metara i spuštamo se stazom oivičenom kamenjem do vrha i vidikovca Molitva. Ta-daaaa! Ako slika govori više od hiljadu reči onda ovaj pogled govori više od hiljadu Insta-slika.
Iako je trek u linku kružni, oduševljeni prethodno viđenim, odlučujemo da se do kampa vratimo istim putem. Usput, stajemo na jednom od vidikovaca duvamo laybag i uz prosecco i cantuccine (tako su nekad i naši dedovi) uživamo u poslednjim zracima sunca. Vraćamo se u kamp i posle kratkih pregovora dobijamo najbolje mesto u kampu - tik uz jezero. Iako smo bolji pregovarači nego što smo kamperi u nekoliko poteza rasklapamo šatore i pripremamo se za noć pred nama. Kamp je prilično divlji i neorganizovan, tako da zaboravite na luksuz. Naravno, ovo nam nikako ne kvari utisak, već doprinosi čitavom iskustvu. Večeramo, čavrljamo sa ekipom i uz album Jana Bloqvista i vino sumiramo dan za nama.
We took the same trail back, making one last stop to soak in the view. Kristian, aka “the best boyfriend ever”, blew up a lazy bag, opened champagne and a bag of cantuccini biscuits and we called it a successful day while watching the sunset over the Uvac meanders.
Savladavamo malo veći uspon i prolazimo pored tzv. „Devojačke stene“. Teren postaje krševitiji a beloglavi supovi proleću iznad naših glava. Savladavamo i poslednjih nekoliko stotina metara i spuštamo se stazom oivičenom kamenjem do vrha i vidikovca Molitva. Ta-daaaa! Ako slika govori više od hiljadu reči onda ovaj pogled govori više od hiljadu Insta-slika.
Iako je trek u linku kružni, oduševljeni prethodno viđenim, odlučujemo da se do kampa vratimo istim putem. Usput, stajemo na jednom od vidikovaca duvamo laybag i uz prosecco i cantuccine (tako su nekad i naši dedovi) uživamo u poslednjim zracima sunca. Vraćamo se u kamp i posle kratkih pregovora dobijamo najbolje mesto u kampu - tik uz jezero. Iako smo bolji pregovarači nego što smo kamperi u nekoliko poteza rasklapamo šatore i pripremamo se za noć pred nama. Kamp je prilično divlji i neorganizovan, tako da zaboravite na luksuz. Naravno, ovo nam nikako ne kvari utisak, već doprinosi čitavom iskustvu. Večeramo, čavrljamo sa ekipom i uz album Jana Bloqvista i vino sumiramo dan za nama.
*After this trip, we knew we had to visit Uvac again. That’s why, when we decided to take a trip to Golija a month later, a mountain in southwest Serbia, we included Uvac in our plans. Based on our experience from those two visits, we put together this guide. Based on the number of free days you have, you can either end your trip here or continue to Golija. However you decide, we highly recommend setting up camp on the Uvac lake after your hike. There’s nothing like zipping open your tent in the morning and watching the sunrise over nature’s masterpiece.
Day 4
Golija Nature Park
A tour guide we met in Sirogojno told us, “there’s absolutely nothing on Golija”, when we asked if it should be included in our touristic plans. We looked at each other and knew that was our next destination. So if you have a few extra days, after Uvac, make your way to the Golija mountain the next day. Located between two towns, Ivanjica (the first Serbian air spa) and Novi Pazar (also called, mini Istanbul), the mountain is heavily forested with significant biodiversity. Over 117 species of algae, 40 species of moss, 7 species of lichen and 75 species of mushrooms have found their home in Golija. You’ll see mountain maple trees which have survived the ice age and a wide variety of wildlife.The highest peak is Jankov Kamen at 1.833 m, from which you can see half of Serbia! Which we unfortunately did not see due to bad weather the next day.
Četvrti dan
Dok smo uz pomoć komplet lepinje u Sirogojnu radili na povišenju našeg krvnog pritiska za susedni sto je sedao prethodno pomenuti vodič ekipe Japanskih turista. Častili smo ga kafom i iskoristili priliku da se raspitamo o okolini i mestima koje smo planirali da posetimo. U jednom trenutku neko je pomenuo Goliju. „E tamo nema ničega.“ – odgovori on. Kratak pogled u Ivanu i prećutni dogovor za sledeću destinaciju je pao. Stoga, poslednji dan ovog produženog vikenda rezervisan je za Goliju.
Golija je jedna od najlepših i šumama najbogatijih planina u Srbiji. Neretko, naići ćete na staba visoka i do 40 metara. Na Goliji je zabeleženo 1091 vrsta živog sveta među kojima su 117 vrsta i varijeteta algi, 40 vrsta mahovina (bio sam ubeđen da postoji samo jedna i da raste na severnoj strani drveća), 7 vrsta lišajeva i 75 vrsta gljiva. Takođe, Golija je prebogata divljači i njome danas krstare lovci na vukove, lisice, divlje svinje, medvede, jazavce, jelene, zečeve. Zbog prisustva 95 vrsta ptica jedan je od veoma važnih planinskih ornitoloških evropskih centara.
Golija Nature Park
A tour guide we met in Sirogojno told us, “there’s absolutely nothing on Golija”, when we asked if it should be included in our touristic plans. We looked at each other and knew that was our next destination. So if you have a few extra days, after Uvac, make your way to the Golija mountain the next day. Located between two towns, Ivanjica (the first Serbian air spa) and Novi Pazar (also called, mini Istanbul), the mountain is heavily forested with significant biodiversity. Over 117 species of algae, 40 species of moss, 7 species of lichen and 75 species of mushrooms have found their home in Golija. You’ll see mountain maple trees which have survived the ice age and a wide variety of wildlife.The highest peak is Jankov Kamen at 1.833 m, from which you can see half of Serbia! Which we unfortunately did not see due to bad weather the next day.
Četvrti dan
Dok smo uz pomoć komplet lepinje u Sirogojnu radili na povišenju našeg krvnog pritiska za susedni sto je sedao prethodno pomenuti vodič ekipe Japanskih turista. Častili smo ga kafom i iskoristili priliku da se raspitamo o okolini i mestima koje smo planirali da posetimo. U jednom trenutku neko je pomenuo Goliju. „E tamo nema ničega.“ – odgovori on. Kratak pogled u Ivanu i prećutni dogovor za sledeću destinaciju je pao. Stoga, poslednji dan ovog produženog vikenda rezervisan je za Goliju.
Golija je jedna od najlepših i šumama najbogatijih planina u Srbiji. Neretko, naići ćete na staba visoka i do 40 metara. Na Goliji je zabeleženo 1091 vrsta živog sveta među kojima su 117 vrsta i varijeteta algi, 40 vrsta mahovina (bio sam ubeđen da postoji samo jedna i da raste na severnoj strani drveća), 7 vrsta lišajeva i 75 vrsta gljiva. Takođe, Golija je prebogata divljači i njome danas krstare lovci na vukove, lisice, divlje svinje, medvede, jazavce, jelene, zečeve. Zbog prisustva 95 vrsta ptica jedan je od veoma važnih planinskih ornitoloških evropskih centara.
On the day we arrived, we found out that there was an organized hike tour the next day to Radočelo Mountain, so to escape the crowds, we decided to hike to Krivača peak on Radočelo Mountain the first day and leave Jankov Kamen on Golija Mountain for the next day. The trail took us through untainted nature with steep and untamable slopes.
Na Goliju smo otišli, takoreći „na slepo“, bez previše istraživanja i nekog konkretnog plana (Goliju smo posetili sa društvom i u originalnoj turi tamo prespavali dve noći – prve smo kampovali u dvorištu osnovne škole u Rudnu a druge odseli u seoskom domaćinstvu. Vi, ukoliko pratite naš vodič, u Rudno stižete posle kampovanja na Uvcu). Pošto smo spavali u šatorima, budi nas sunce, brujanje Lada Niva i prvi đaci koji u školu dolaze iz okolnih sela. Dok čekamo da se otvori prodavnica motamo se po selu i saznajemo da je za sutra zakazana organizovana tura na Radočelo. Ako je ova tura dobra za dve stotine planinara, dobra je i za nas, ali kako dan ne bi proveli gledajući u đonove tuđih patika i ostatak McKinleyeve kolekcije proleće/leto odlučujemo se da preduhitrimo planinare i osvojimo Krivaču dan ranije. Rezervišemo smeštaj - na osnovu odličnih recenzija i ljubavi prema ruralnom turizmu i domaćoj hrani odlučujemo se za vilu Selena – i krećemo.
Na Goliju smo otišli, takoreći „na slepo“, bez previše istraživanja i nekog konkretnog plana (Goliju smo posetili sa društvom i u originalnoj turi tamo prespavali dve noći – prve smo kampovali u dvorištu osnovne škole u Rudnu a druge odseli u seoskom domaćinstvu. Vi, ukoliko pratite naš vodič, u Rudno stižete posle kampovanja na Uvcu). Pošto smo spavali u šatorima, budi nas sunce, brujanje Lada Niva i prvi đaci koji u školu dolaze iz okolnih sela. Dok čekamo da se otvori prodavnica motamo se po selu i saznajemo da je za sutra zakazana organizovana tura na Radočelo. Ako je ova tura dobra za dve stotine planinara, dobra je i za nas, ali kako dan ne bi proveli gledajući u đonove tuđih patika i ostatak McKinleyeve kolekcije proleće/leto odlučujemo se da preduhitrimo planinare i osvojimo Krivaču dan ranije. Rezervišemo smeštaj - na osnovu odličnih recenzija i ljubavi prema ruralnom turizmu i domaćoj hrani odlučujemo se za vilu Selena – i krećemo.
Rudno Village
After such an exhausting hike we were glad we booked a night at Vila Selena in Rudno, run by a welcoming older couple. We pre-ordered dinner as well, so we went straight from the trail to the table. It’s best to always arrange dinner beforehand, because these rural family run villas usually don’t operate as a regular restaurant. You have to arrange the time and meal you prefer from their local cuisine. The grandma made us delicious cabbage rolls for dinner. We took off our shoes, opened a bottle of wine and chatted the night away.
If you would rather camp, the school yard is a great place to set up tents. The kids will be thrilled to see campers and the teachers will let you use the bathroom and freshen up in the morning.
Uspon na Krivaču nije preterano težak (čeka Vas oko 600 metara visinske razlike) a staza je solidno markirana. Pokupite seosko kuče i čeka Vas superkvalitetan ostatak dana uz ekipu, neprohodnu i prohodu šumu i bujne pašnjake. Malo smo skrenuli sa puta i posle 35 kilometara šetnje vraćamo se u Rudno. Čeka na topla dobrodošlica domaćina dodatno podgrejana domaćom šljivom. Čitavo domaćinstvo izgleda set iz Diznijevog crtaća iz prve polovine dvadesetog veka. Drvena kućica u koju ostavljamo rančeve izgleda kao da su iz nje tek izašli patuljci a u trpezariji kao da se jos čuje eho pesme uz koju su Snežana, ptičice i sitna divljač postavljali sto. Sama večera nije ništa manje idilična. Čeka nas savršena domaća sarma, sveži kajmak koji je do pre dva minuta na vrhu šerpe sa mlekom i odličan polutvrdi sir.
After such an exhausting hike we were glad we booked a night at Vila Selena in Rudno, run by a welcoming older couple. We pre-ordered dinner as well, so we went straight from the trail to the table. It’s best to always arrange dinner beforehand, because these rural family run villas usually don’t operate as a regular restaurant. You have to arrange the time and meal you prefer from their local cuisine. The grandma made us delicious cabbage rolls for dinner. We took off our shoes, opened a bottle of wine and chatted the night away.
If you would rather camp, the school yard is a great place to set up tents. The kids will be thrilled to see campers and the teachers will let you use the bathroom and freshen up in the morning.
Uspon na Krivaču nije preterano težak (čeka Vas oko 600 metara visinske razlike) a staza je solidno markirana. Pokupite seosko kuče i čeka Vas superkvalitetan ostatak dana uz ekipu, neprohodnu i prohodu šumu i bujne pašnjake. Malo smo skrenuli sa puta i posle 35 kilometara šetnje vraćamo se u Rudno. Čeka na topla dobrodošlica domaćina dodatno podgrejana domaćom šljivom. Čitavo domaćinstvo izgleda set iz Diznijevog crtaća iz prve polovine dvadesetog veka. Drvena kućica u koju ostavljamo rančeve izgleda kao da su iz nje tek izašli patuljci a u trpezariji kao da se jos čuje eho pesme uz koju su Snežana, ptičice i sitna divljač postavljali sto. Sama večera nije ništa manje idilična. Čeka nas savršena domaća sarma, sveži kajmak koji je do pre dva minuta na vrhu šerpe sa mlekom i odličan polutvrdi sir.
Day 5
What else to see?
There are numerous monuments and monasteries which date back to the Middle Ages scattered all over Golija. Since the weather was not suitable for hiking to Jankov Kamen, we took a trip to the Studenica Monastery nearby. The monastery is considered one of the biggest treasures of the Serbian Orthodox Church, because despite being destroyed several times, the Studenica monastery on the slopes of Mt. Radočelo has been treasuring some of the most beautiful medieval Serbian frescoes for over eight centuries.
What else to see?
There are numerous monuments and monasteries which date back to the Middle Ages scattered all over Golija. Since the weather was not suitable for hiking to Jankov Kamen, we took a trip to the Studenica Monastery nearby. The monastery is considered one of the biggest treasures of the Serbian Orthodox Church, because despite being destroyed several times, the Studenica monastery on the slopes of Mt. Radočelo has been treasuring some of the most beautiful medieval Serbian frescoes for over eight centuries.
Another hidden cultural gem is the Hanging Monastery of Saint Sava. I saw a random image of this place on Google before our trip and I knew I had to see it. It's such a unique place, especially if you know the story behind it. Three hundred meters above the ground, built on the cliffs of mountain Radočelo, on a vertical rock cliff over the Studenica river canyon, the upper hermitage of St. Sava has been hanging there for over eight centuries. From the Nemanjić dynasty to present day, this hermitage is a place of silence and the greatest ascetic exploit for monks. Just as they did eight centuries ago, people walk with awe through the narrow mountain path, pray and take water from the springhead in the cave where St. Sava led an ascetic life. There is no precise information about the period it was built in.
We kept our promise to go on hiking trips at least once a year and actually managed to squeeze in two this year. Hope this guide helps you organize your own hiking trip and visit Serbia’s less known areas and villages. Just do a bit of research and keep an open mind, because Serbia is unpredictable and loves the adventurous. If you have any tips for us, leave a comment below. We’d love to hear any ideas where to go next!
Poslednji dan
Zla kraljica je saznala da je Snežana ipak živa a i sutra je radni dan, tako da je bolje da palimo. Vozimo se Ibarskom magistralom, melanholija se može seći nožem, ali saznanje da su za neopisivu sreću dovoljni voljena osoba, dobri prijatelji, lepote i delikatesi rodnoga kraja razvlači ti osmeh od uva do uva i stavlja savršenu tačku na još jednu avanturu.
Poslednji dan
Zla kraljica je saznala da je Snežana ipak živa a i sutra je radni dan, tako da je bolje da palimo. Vozimo se Ibarskom magistralom, melanholija se može seći nožem, ali saznanje da su za neopisivu sreću dovoljni voljena osoba, dobri prijatelji, lepote i delikatesi rodnoga kraja razvlači ti osmeh od uva do uva i stavlja savršenu tačku na još jednu avanturu.