This guide is written by two very different people, which you'll notice if you read both our English and Serbian texts. This two-week trip crowned our three year relationship and enabled us to create a stronger bond as partners. If you're an English speaker, I'm afraid you're left to read my rational take on Sri Lanka, while the Serbians are able to enjoy a more emotional text by Kristian. Hope you like this dual text and let us know who's style you enjoyed more! Be honest please :P
We knew we wanted to go somewhere exotic for our first vacation abroad, so when we saw that FlyDubai had 50% off all of their flights, we went ahead and searched for potential destinations. Our first choice was Nepal, but it slipped through our fingers, and the next country that rang a bell in Kristian's ear was, Sri Lanka. At first I thought it wasn't even that exotic of a choice, but decided to support my boyfriend and his pick. That is how we booked our seats almost a year ahead and secured ourselves a trip of a lifetime to the island of Sri Lanka.
January surprised us and came too fast. We didn't get a chance to make an itinerary or read much about Sri Lanka before our trip, but we knew we wanted to explore the island as much as we could in the 14 days. We're all about meeting new people, getting to know the local lifestyle, food and culture, all without breaking the bank, so no fancy resorts were on our radar. Instead, we opened Youtube and learned how to pack for a two week trip in a backpack. It was our first time going backpacking and I had no idea how I would fit my stuff into just one backpack. The main idea was to pick a few pieces of practical (soft and light) clothing that could be rolled-up and washed with a bar of soap. I took one pair of running shoes, sandals and flip-flops, travel size toiletries and beauty products which meant I wouldn't be pointlessly carrying an overfull and heavy bag on my back.
January surprised us and came too fast. We didn't get a chance to make an itinerary or read much about Sri Lanka before our trip, but we knew we wanted to explore the island as much as we could in the 14 days. We're all about meeting new people, getting to know the local lifestyle, food and culture, all without breaking the bank, so no fancy resorts were on our radar. Instead, we opened Youtube and learned how to pack for a two week trip in a backpack. It was our first time going backpacking and I had no idea how I would fit my stuff into just one backpack. The main idea was to pick a few pieces of practical (soft and light) clothing that could be rolled-up and washed with a bar of soap. I took one pair of running shoes, sandals and flip-flops, travel size toiletries and beauty products which meant I wouldn't be pointlessly carrying an overfull and heavy bag on my back.
Bilo je kasno uveče, sedeli smo za računarom i posle nekoliko Oliverovih recepata, IMDB Top 250 liste i nekoliko socijalističkih komada nameštaja iz društvenih preduzeća na Kupujemprodajem, naišli na jeftine avio karte. Sve te egzotične destinacije, čija sam imena toliko puta čuo, a ni poziciju na karti nisam znao (i nadao se da me Ivana neće pitati da joj kažem nešto više o njima – sedimo za istim računarom, što znači da mesta da nešto izgooglam i na osnovu toga pravim pametan nema), bile su samo jedan klik (i nekoliko required fields (i nekoliko podataka sa vaše platne kartice (i onda još par klikova))) daleko. Mene je neki unutrašnji osećaj (štreber i unutrašnji osećaj – haha.) vukao na Nepal. Karata za Nepal više nije bilo. Slično je bilo i sa preostalim vremenom trajanja 50% off akcije – 14 min. Druga opcija bila je Šri Lanka. Jedino što sam o njoj znao bilo je da se nekada zvala Cejlon – i tačka, bukvalno. Karte smo ipak kupili, ja zato što sam hteo da konačno postanem buntovan, nepredvidiv i spontan (hteo da postanem spontan – bravo), a Ivana je verovatno želela da popuni i zadnju stranu svog pasoša. Booking confirmed. Dok je mene preplavljao osećaj dečaka koji je pre 2 minuta razbio maminu vazu, a Ivana gunđala kako je već petoro ljudi iz naše dalje okoline bilo tamo, odlučili smo da pogledamo Šri Lanka epizodu No Reservations-a. Anthony Bourdain počinje emisiju sa: "Colombo, Sri Lanka. Country is torn apart by 25 years of civil war...". Mali dečak je uništio mamin omiljeni komad nameštaja, razbio svaki element maminog seta od 72 komada, koji je kao miraz dobila od svoje bake, a onom vazom svoju mlađu sestru častio sa 5 šavova. Brzo googlamo dalje. Dobro je, završio se 2009. Još samo 8 meseci stoji između nas i Šri Lanke.
Nismo se ni okrenuli a Januar je bio tu. Iako sam očekivao da ću do tada imati sopstveni travel guide u tvrdom povezu, sve se svelo na jedan članak koji sam pročitao dok sam čekao u redu za tuširanje na Jahorini. Klasičan kofer ili ranac? Kako se uopšte spakovati u ranac? To se samo Bear Grils folira dok mu ekipa nosi ostatak prtljaga. Odlučio sam da napustim komfornu zonu i kupio sam ranac. Odgledao jedan video na YT, uzeo dva šorca, sedam majci, pantalone, duks, kabanicu, patike i japanke. To više liči na moj dvodnevni prtljag. Jedino što sam ispoštovao bilo je koliko dana – toliko gaća pravilo.
Nismo se ni okrenuli a Januar je bio tu. Iako sam očekivao da ću do tada imati sopstveni travel guide u tvrdom povezu, sve se svelo na jedan članak koji sam pročitao dok sam čekao u redu za tuširanje na Jahorini. Klasičan kofer ili ranac? Kako se uopšte spakovati u ranac? To se samo Bear Grils folira dok mu ekipa nosi ostatak prtljaga. Odlučio sam da napustim komfornu zonu i kupio sam ranac. Odgledao jedan video na YT, uzeo dva šorca, sedam majci, pantalone, duks, kabanicu, patike i japanke. To više liči na moj dvodnevni prtljag. Jedino što sam ispoštovao bilo je koliko dana – toliko gaća pravilo.
Arriving at Colombo Airport
We booked one night in Colombo a day before our departure and that was the only sure thing waiting for us there. It took us 13 hours to get from Belgrade to Bandaranaike International Airport, which is 35km from the capitol. I've never seen home appliances being sold at the arrival hall. It was the first sign that we were in an eccentric country. We exchanged some euros, bought a sim card for mobile internet, and exited the airport in search of the local bus that would take us to the central bus station in Colombo city. The bus "station" is to the right of the entrance/exit, just 30m across the airport building. The best thing is to ask locals to direct you to bus number 187-E3, as there are no clear signs. The price of the ticket is symbolic to say the least (110 LKR / $0.75) and just so I'm clear from the start, throughout the trip, we always gave priority to public transportation. It was an hour long air-conditioned ride. The bus does have space for luggage so do not pay attention to anyone pretending to be associated to the bus company, because they are just looking to scam you. There is no extra charge for luggage nor is there a need to tip the driver or his colleagues. This leads me to rule number one of Sri Lanka: No one, I mean no one is looking to help you - at least not for free. I'm sorry, but this is the truth. There are smaller overhead compartments on the bus, and in most cases, you can take an extra seat for your baggage. The last SLTB-operated bus from Colombo is 7.30 pm, and last bus from the airport leaves at about 8pm. The schedules are not fixed, but expect a bus every 30 minutes.
Other ways of getting to Colombo are taking a privately operated bus, train or tuk-tuk. The train goes to Colombo Fort and it’s the cheapest way to get there, at 30 rupees ($0.20), but note that the station is about 1km from the airport. A tuk-tuk ride is about 2,500 rupees ($17 USD) but that solely depends on your haggling skills. All in all, there is no need to complicate, just take the public bus if you're on a budget, or a tuk-tuk if you are a comfortable traveller.
We booked one night in Colombo a day before our departure and that was the only sure thing waiting for us there. It took us 13 hours to get from Belgrade to Bandaranaike International Airport, which is 35km from the capitol. I've never seen home appliances being sold at the arrival hall. It was the first sign that we were in an eccentric country. We exchanged some euros, bought a sim card for mobile internet, and exited the airport in search of the local bus that would take us to the central bus station in Colombo city. The bus "station" is to the right of the entrance/exit, just 30m across the airport building. The best thing is to ask locals to direct you to bus number 187-E3, as there are no clear signs. The price of the ticket is symbolic to say the least (110 LKR / $0.75) and just so I'm clear from the start, throughout the trip, we always gave priority to public transportation. It was an hour long air-conditioned ride. The bus does have space for luggage so do not pay attention to anyone pretending to be associated to the bus company, because they are just looking to scam you. There is no extra charge for luggage nor is there a need to tip the driver or his colleagues. This leads me to rule number one of Sri Lanka: No one, I mean no one is looking to help you - at least not for free. I'm sorry, but this is the truth. There are smaller overhead compartments on the bus, and in most cases, you can take an extra seat for your baggage. The last SLTB-operated bus from Colombo is 7.30 pm, and last bus from the airport leaves at about 8pm. The schedules are not fixed, but expect a bus every 30 minutes.
Other ways of getting to Colombo are taking a privately operated bus, train or tuk-tuk. The train goes to Colombo Fort and it’s the cheapest way to get there, at 30 rupees ($0.20), but note that the station is about 1km from the airport. A tuk-tuk ride is about 2,500 rupees ($17 USD) but that solely depends on your haggling skills. All in all, there is no need to complicate, just take the public bus if you're on a budget, or a tuk-tuk if you are a comfortable traveller.
Otišli smo u Beograd, ukrcali u avion, posle iznenađujuće lošeg DBX terminala 2 i iznenađujuće dobrog Subway sendviča (najeftinija klopa na DBX) i 13 sati leta stigli na Bandaranaike aerodrom. Da razjasnimo, Ivana i ja smo mladi (Ivana tu i tamo), ne očekujte velike hotelske komplekse i privatne vozače (biće jedan). Dok smo izlazili iz aviona, počeli smo da shvatamo šta nas čeka.
Razmenili smo novac, kupili SIM karticu (Ivani za Instagram) i potražili autobusku stanicu. Kada izađete iz zgrade aerodroma, idite pravo, produžite pored navalentnih taksista i posle 30 m doćete na stanicu. Pošto stanica nije jasno obeležena, možda će vam trebati pomoć lokalaca. Autobus koji će vas odvesti do centralne autobuske stanice u Colombu jeste 187-E3. Karta košta oko 110 LKR (80 RSD) a vožnja u zavisnosti od gužve traje oko 45 min. Sa glavne stanice, cenkamo se (još uvek neiskusno), uzimamo tuk-tuk (700 LKR) i stižemo u naš hostel.
Razmenili smo novac, kupili SIM karticu (Ivani za Instagram) i potražili autobusku stanicu. Kada izađete iz zgrade aerodroma, idite pravo, produžite pored navalentnih taksista i posle 30 m doćete na stanicu. Pošto stanica nije jasno obeležena, možda će vam trebati pomoć lokalaca. Autobus koji će vas odvesti do centralne autobuske stanice u Colombu jeste 187-E3. Karta košta oko 110 LKR (80 RSD) a vožnja u zavisnosti od gužve traje oko 45 min. Sa glavne stanice, cenkamo se (još uvek neiskusno), uzimamo tuk-tuk (700 LKR) i stižemo u naš hostel.
Colombo City
Once you get off the bus you are left to the tuk-tuk drivers. Here is where you get to test your haggling skills. The first price they ask is usually three times more than the realistic one. Of course, we knew we'd have to haggle in Sri Lanka, but we quickly figured out that this was a new level of haggling. The price you should be going for is 500 rupees - they'll probably ask for 1,500 and please don't this your ripping them off by giving them so much less.
We were in Colombo for only a day so we just needed a place to crash. We stayed at "Hostel At Galle Face" for $17 for two people. It was cheap, friendly, clean place (for Sri Lanka standards) and in a good location.
I was so disappointed that no one in their guides didn't mention the fact that Colombo should be skipped altogether. It should. Just forget about Colombo and rather go to Negombo city. Especially if you're only looking for a place to spend the first night and refresh after your flight, or if you are on a tight schedule and don't have a lot of days to spend. Colombo will just drain you even more and proved to be a total waste of time. However, if your keen on still going or somehow find yourself there, here are the places to see:
The next morning we left for our next destination. Polonnaruwa was next on our map. We took the 6 am train since that was the only one with seats left. Everyone said we should buy our tickets earlier, and they were right. Seats get sold out really quickly so buy your tickets at least a day before! We used this website's train timetables during our entire trip.
Once you get off the bus you are left to the tuk-tuk drivers. Here is where you get to test your haggling skills. The first price they ask is usually three times more than the realistic one. Of course, we knew we'd have to haggle in Sri Lanka, but we quickly figured out that this was a new level of haggling. The price you should be going for is 500 rupees - they'll probably ask for 1,500 and please don't this your ripping them off by giving them so much less.
We were in Colombo for only a day so we just needed a place to crash. We stayed at "Hostel At Galle Face" for $17 for two people. It was cheap, friendly, clean place (for Sri Lanka standards) and in a good location.
I was so disappointed that no one in their guides didn't mention the fact that Colombo should be skipped altogether. It should. Just forget about Colombo and rather go to Negombo city. Especially if you're only looking for a place to spend the first night and refresh after your flight, or if you are on a tight schedule and don't have a lot of days to spend. Colombo will just drain you even more and proved to be a total waste of time. However, if your keen on still going or somehow find yourself there, here are the places to see:
- Pettah Floating Market - Don't expect much, it's not like the floating markets in other cities. Most of the shops were closed and the ones that were open sell overpriced typical tourist merchandise. What you can do is have a fruit drink or some local street food like us. After we ate, we wandered through the rest of the Pettah neighbourhood. Now this is where all the action is. It's Sri Lanka's busiest commercial area. This is where we got the first glimpse of true Sri Lanka. Masses of people, cars, motorbikes, smells and sounds.
- Old Dutch Hospital - During the Dutch occupation, the building served as a hospital, but in 2011 it was renovated into a restaurant and shopping complex. In the courtyard you can enjoy live music, shop around and have a nice dinner. The famous "Ministry of Crab" restaurant is located here along with other fancy bars and restaurants.
The next morning we left for our next destination. Polonnaruwa was next on our map. We took the 6 am train since that was the only one with seats left. Everyone said we should buy our tickets earlier, and they were right. Seats get sold out really quickly so buy your tickets at least a day before! We used this website's train timetables during our entire trip.
Izbor za prvu Šri Lankansku noć bio je Hostel At Galle Face. Karakterišu ga opuštena atmosfera, prijateljski nastrojeno osoblje i pristupačnost. Nadomak hostela nalazi se Galle Face Green – “park” koji se proteže uz okean. Jedini razlog zašto ga spominjem, jeste kako bih naglasio da nije vredan Vašeg vremena (iako će Trip Advisor i ostali pokušati da Vas uvere u suprotno). Štaviše, naša preporuka je da preskočite Colombo, ostanete u Negombu, i čim predahnete od Vašeg leta, odatle nastavite Vaše putovanje. Ako se ipak zateknete u Colombu, naši pick-ovi su:
Detaljnije informacije o rasporedu i cene karata možete pogledati ovde.
- Pettah Floating Market – mala plutajuća pijaca na jezeru Beira. Ništa posebno, ali nama je ostala u lepom sećanju zbog prvih popijenih sveže cedjenih sokova i dobrog ručka. Posle ovoga obavezno prošetajte ulicama starog Pettah-a – ovo je suština Šri Lanke – apsolutni haos i šok za sva Vaša čula.
- Old Dutch Hospital – nekada bolnica, koju su tokom kolonijalne ere sagradili Holanđani, a danas je to mesto gde ćete naći dobre restorane, kafiće i šopove. Ovde bi izdvojili nadaleko poznati „Ministry of Crab“, koji predstavlja nezaobilazno mesto za svakog ozbiljnog foody-ja.
Detaljnije informacije o rasporedu i cene karata možete pogledati ovde.
Polonnaruwa City
The train ride took some getting used to, I won't lie. We travelled second class along with other locals which I loved. The highlight of the trip was the scenery through central Sri Lanka and trying homemade snacks from the local sellers hopping on and off the train. Every train stop, a new seller would hop on offering fresh mangoes, fried shrimps or fish and stuffed pastries. Yum. Note: since you're going to a new country with new food, be sure to check your allergies or bring antihistamines. Kristian found out he was allergic to mangoes the hard way - on the train - and we had to ask some fellow travellers for pills.
Vožnja vozom je nešto što morate probati dok ste u poseti Šri Lanci. Ako ste ovde došli bez Vašeg batlera i velikokalibarske puške za lov na krupnu divljač, savetujem Vam da prvu klasu u vozu preskočite i uzmete karte za drugu. Ovako ćete stvarno uroniti u lokalni mentalitet i atmosferu. Sa svakom novom stanicom u vagonu će se smenjivati prodavci lokalnih specijaliteta i svežeg voća. Osećaj gadljivosti ostavite na Tesli. I proverite alergije, da Vam mango ne bi došao glave ;)
The train ride took some getting used to, I won't lie. We travelled second class along with other locals which I loved. The highlight of the trip was the scenery through central Sri Lanka and trying homemade snacks from the local sellers hopping on and off the train. Every train stop, a new seller would hop on offering fresh mangoes, fried shrimps or fish and stuffed pastries. Yum. Note: since you're going to a new country with new food, be sure to check your allergies or bring antihistamines. Kristian found out he was allergic to mangoes the hard way - on the train - and we had to ask some fellow travellers for pills.
Vožnja vozom je nešto što morate probati dok ste u poseti Šri Lanci. Ako ste ovde došli bez Vašeg batlera i velikokalibarske puške za lov na krupnu divljač, savetujem Vam da prvu klasu u vozu preskočite i uzmete karte za drugu. Ovako ćete stvarno uroniti u lokalni mentalitet i atmosferu. Sa svakom novom stanicom u vagonu će se smenjivati prodavci lokalnih specijaliteta i svežeg voća. Osećaj gadljivosti ostavite na Tesli. I proverite alergije, da Vam mango ne bi došao glave ;)
Polonnaruwa is part of the Cultural Triangle along with Anuradhapura and Sigiriya. Even though Anuradhapura is considered to be the countries most sacred ancient city, we decided to skip it because of our time crunch. It's located north and we were going south. My theory was, if you've seen one ancient city, you've seen them all. Of course, if you're a history junkie, love ruins or the Buddhist religion, you would love all three places. Once the capital of Ceylon, Polonnaruwa remains represent medieval Sri Lanka at its finest. Remember to dress appropriately: pants or long skirts that fall below the knee and t-shirts that cover your shoulders are a must. You will be taking off your shoes everytime you want to enter a temple, so keep that in mind (I wouldn't recommend wearing sneakers).
We stayed at the "Tishan Holiday Resort", a place I really recommend. It was one of our best cheapest accommodations. It's located a bit farther away from the city center, but we rented bikes from the owners and took a 5km bike ride down to the city. The bike ride was one of the highlights of the trip. Cruising down the busy streets with monkeys jumping out every few meters. I couldn't believe it! It was amazing to see these creatures up close.
We stayed at the "Tishan Holiday Resort", a place I really recommend. It was one of our best cheapest accommodations. It's located a bit farther away from the city center, but we rented bikes from the owners and took a 5km bike ride down to the city. The bike ride was one of the highlights of the trip. Cruising down the busy streets with monkeys jumping out every few meters. I couldn't believe it! It was amazing to see these creatures up close.
Posle šestočasovne vožnje kroz živopisne predele centralnog dela ostrva sići ćete u Polonnaruwu. Ako ste ljubitelj istorije, starih ruševina, gradova i hramova, malo severnije, naći ćete Anuradhapuru, najveći i najstariji od svih antičkih gradova.
Naša topla preporuka za smeštaj u Polonnaruwi jeste apsolutni pobednik odnosa cene i kvaliteta - Tishan Holiday Resort. Kada ostavite Vaše rančeve i sperete sa sebe čari Šri Lankanske železnice, izrentajte bajseve i krenite u obilazak ruševina, od kojih Vas deli živopisna tridesetominutna vožnja po prilično frekventnom putu (paz’te se majmuna na putu).
Naša topla preporuka za smeštaj u Polonnaruwi jeste apsolutni pobednik odnosa cene i kvaliteta - Tishan Holiday Resort. Kada ostavite Vaše rančeve i sperete sa sebe čari Šri Lankanske železnice, izrentajte bajseve i krenite u obilazak ruševina, od kojih Vas deli živopisna tridesetominutna vožnja po prilično frekventnom putu (paz’te se majmuna na putu).
Sigiriya
To get to Sigiriya we took a bus heading to Kandy, but we got off at the Inamaluwa junction. Once you get off in this town, you either take a tuk-tuk to Sigiriya or ask the locals to direct you to another bus that will take you 10km to the famous rock. We opted for the later because it was a much cheaper option. Again, it was another memorable ride with the locals, accompanied by loud Sinhalese music and festive lights.
Once you arrive in the park grounds, buy your tickets and leave your backpacks in the police station. I would recommend taking some lunch pack because there are just a few small bistro's selling just a handful of products. Take a sandwich, biscuits and fruit - I know I was really hungry by the time we got back down from the rock. The 200m climb up was fairly easy with steps that took you up the entire way. Along the way, you'll meet some local craftsmen selling their handmade products. Please remember to haggle - the prices are still blown up. Kristian bought a nice wood carved box from a gaudy local.
The view up-top was magnificent. It was the first time we saw the rich nature of central Sri Lanka. The summit holds a fortress with cave temples, water gardens and frescoes that stand the test of time.
To get to Sigiriya we took a bus heading to Kandy, but we got off at the Inamaluwa junction. Once you get off in this town, you either take a tuk-tuk to Sigiriya or ask the locals to direct you to another bus that will take you 10km to the famous rock. We opted for the later because it was a much cheaper option. Again, it was another memorable ride with the locals, accompanied by loud Sinhalese music and festive lights.
Once you arrive in the park grounds, buy your tickets and leave your backpacks in the police station. I would recommend taking some lunch pack because there are just a few small bistro's selling just a handful of products. Take a sandwich, biscuits and fruit - I know I was really hungry by the time we got back down from the rock. The 200m climb up was fairly easy with steps that took you up the entire way. Along the way, you'll meet some local craftsmen selling their handmade products. Please remember to haggle - the prices are still blown up. Kristian bought a nice wood carved box from a gaudy local.
The view up-top was magnificent. It was the first time we saw the rich nature of central Sri Lanka. The summit holds a fortress with cave temples, water gardens and frescoes that stand the test of time.
Nedaleko smeštaja nalazila se autobuska stanica sa koje smo hvatali bus za Kandy. Naša sledeća stanica bila je Sigiriya. Ako je ovo i Vaša destinacija, siđite na Inamaluwa raskrsnici, gde ćete pitati lokalce da Vas sednu na sledeći autobus, koji će Vas približiti Sigiriyi za dodatnih 10 km. Bilo bi dobro da sa sobom ponesete neku hranu pošto Vas do stene čeka 3 km pešačenja sa svim Vašim prtljagom.
Kupite karte, ostavite prtlljag u maloj policijskoj stanici i psihički se spremite za beskonačne stepenice koje se nalaze između Vas i vrha. Kada prvi put ugledate stenu i predeo koji je okružuje, ostaćete nepomični i hipnotisani, što je verovatno i bio željeni utisak. Sigiriya je bivši glavni grad Šri Lanke a kud ćeš bolje mesto za kraljevu palate od 200 metara visoke stene, koju okružuje beskonačna džungla…
Kupite karte, ostavite prtlljag u maloj policijskoj stanici i psihički se spremite za beskonačne stepenice koje se nalaze između Vas i vrha. Kada prvi put ugledate stenu i predeo koji je okružuje, ostaćete nepomični i hipnotisani, što je verovatno i bio željeni utisak. Sigiriya je bivši glavni grad Šri Lanke a kud ćeš bolje mesto za kraljevu palate od 200 metara visoke stene, koju okružuje beskonačna džungla…
Kandy
Heading south, our next stop was Kandy. Once we returned from Sigiriya to the Inamaluwa junction, we just missed our bus to Kandy. The bus left while I was buying biscuits just across the bus station. This turned out quite well for us, because in a few minutes a driver offered us a ride to Kandy. Of course his initial price was 8,000 rupees which we marked down to 400 rupees. You can't imagine how proud and happy we were. We had mastered the art of haggling at this point. The driver suggested we stop at a spice garden, which turned out to be a highlight of our trip. I strongly suggest you do the same. There are several spice gardens along the road leading to Kandy.
Kandy, the second largest city, attracted us with its preserved colonial houses and the most significant Buddhist shrine - The Temple of the Sacred Tooth. Unfortunately, arriving late in Kandy meant the temple was closed and there was no chance we could see it the next day since the train to Ella left early in the morning. We didn't have any reservations so we had to take whatever we could.
Personally, I think Kandy is much cleaner, more cultural and developed in comparison to Colombo. I really enjoyed the few hours we spent there and it definitely had the most bars, cafes and restaurants to choose from. We stayed at a nice place called "Camarin Residence". It was super clean with hot water, wifi and a nice breakfast included in the price. This was the first hot shower I had since leaving home. It took me a couple of days to realize that hot water was not included in the price of the cheaper rooms in Sri Lanka. I just thought the boiler was either broken or didn't heat well enough and never actually asked any of the owners why we never had hot water in our accommodation.
Heading south, our next stop was Kandy. Once we returned from Sigiriya to the Inamaluwa junction, we just missed our bus to Kandy. The bus left while I was buying biscuits just across the bus station. This turned out quite well for us, because in a few minutes a driver offered us a ride to Kandy. Of course his initial price was 8,000 rupees which we marked down to 400 rupees. You can't imagine how proud and happy we were. We had mastered the art of haggling at this point. The driver suggested we stop at a spice garden, which turned out to be a highlight of our trip. I strongly suggest you do the same. There are several spice gardens along the road leading to Kandy.
Kandy, the second largest city, attracted us with its preserved colonial houses and the most significant Buddhist shrine - The Temple of the Sacred Tooth. Unfortunately, arriving late in Kandy meant the temple was closed and there was no chance we could see it the next day since the train to Ella left early in the morning. We didn't have any reservations so we had to take whatever we could.
Personally, I think Kandy is much cleaner, more cultural and developed in comparison to Colombo. I really enjoyed the few hours we spent there and it definitely had the most bars, cafes and restaurants to choose from. We stayed at a nice place called "Camarin Residence". It was super clean with hot water, wifi and a nice breakfast included in the price. This was the first hot shower I had since leaving home. It took me a couple of days to realize that hot water was not included in the price of the cheaper rooms in Sri Lanka. I just thought the boiler was either broken or didn't heat well enough and never actually asked any of the owners why we never had hot water in our accommodation.
Ukoliko ne budete imali ludu sreću i ne nađete taxi za 400 LKR (prvobitnih 8000 LKR – već smo doktori za cenkanje), vratite se na raskrsnicu Inamaluwa i sačekajte autobus za Kandy. Autobusi su prilično redovni i saobraćaju na ovoj ruti svakih 30min – 60min. Negde na polovini između bivše kraljeve palate i Kandy-ja nalazi se divna bašta sa začinima, koju, ako ste u mogućnosti, morate posetiti. Tamo nas je dočekao veoma ljubazan vodič, koji nam je pokazao da o začinima znamo koliko i Vaši baka i deka o novim face filterima na Instagramu. Za vreme naše posete u bašti se nalazila i nova grupa polaznika kursa masaže, kojima smo velikodušno prepustili naša tela kako bi se na njima usavršavali.
U Kandy smo stigli kasno uveče, tako da vremena za obilazak nije bilo. Ali Vi nemojte napraviti istu grešku i obavezno obiđite Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, u kojem se nalazi najvažnija budistička relikvija na celoj Šri Lanci – zub samog Bude, glavom i bradom. U Kandiju smo odseli u Camarin Residence koji nudi sve ono što Vam je potrebno posle ovakvog dana: vruć tuš, free wifi, čist i udoban krevet. I da ne zaboravim doručak – odličan je.
Naše naredno odredište je gradić Ella, okružen beskrajnim plantažama čaja i planinama. U Ellu ćemo putovati vozom, ali pošto je ova vožnja veoma popularna, rezervišite Vaše karte bar dva dana ranije, kako se ne biste švercovali među lovcima na ugrožene vrste i njihovim skupim koferima.
U Kandy smo stigli kasno uveče, tako da vremena za obilazak nije bilo. Ali Vi nemojte napraviti istu grešku i obavezno obiđite Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, u kojem se nalazi najvažnija budistička relikvija na celoj Šri Lanci – zub samog Bude, glavom i bradom. U Kandiju smo odseli u Camarin Residence koji nudi sve ono što Vam je potrebno posle ovakvog dana: vruć tuš, free wifi, čist i udoban krevet. I da ne zaboravim doručak – odličan je.
Naše naredno odredište je gradić Ella, okružen beskrajnim plantažama čaja i planinama. U Ellu ćemo putovati vozom, ali pošto je ova vožnja veoma popularna, rezervišite Vaše karte bar dva dana ranije, kako se ne biste švercovali među lovcima na ugrožene vrste i njihovim skupim koferima.
Ella
Now comes the most important part of planning your trip. Like I said, it's very important you book your train seats ahead and this especially applies for the scenic train departing from Kandy to Ella. If you don't make reservations upfront, you will compromise the most picturesque views you'll ever see in Sri Lanka. When we arrived at the station we saw so many tourists - the most since the beginning of our trip. This was a clear indicator that us not having bought our tickets beforehand was not a good move. Of course, the only ticket they sold us was for third class. The train was an hour delayed and this is when we got annoyed that we could have used this time to go see the temple.
Hoards of people started boarding the train and we had no chance of getting on! Just before the train left, we jumped in the doorway of the first class wagon and that is where we remained for the rest of our trip. I would definitely recommend getting a seat in the second class because first class will isolate you from experiencing the ride to its fullest. From the doorway, we saw the scenery change every once in a while. We would be looking at farms, villages, old bridges and tunnels, misty forests and vast green tea plantations with busy workers waving to us from the fields. Remember, this is said to be the most scenic train journey in Asia.
From the station we took a tuk-tuk to our accommodation. Look no further than "Guest house Ella Hide View". The views from this place are surreal! We spent two nights here and would have stayed longer if we had time. Tip: disregard the locals at the station and main road offering rooms. It's best to get accommodation in the hills and avoid rooms in the center because of the noise, crowds and mediocre view. You will most probably have to pay for a tuk-tuk to take you to the center, but I think it's worth it.
Now comes the most important part of planning your trip. Like I said, it's very important you book your train seats ahead and this especially applies for the scenic train departing from Kandy to Ella. If you don't make reservations upfront, you will compromise the most picturesque views you'll ever see in Sri Lanka. When we arrived at the station we saw so many tourists - the most since the beginning of our trip. This was a clear indicator that us not having bought our tickets beforehand was not a good move. Of course, the only ticket they sold us was for third class. The train was an hour delayed and this is when we got annoyed that we could have used this time to go see the temple.
Hoards of people started boarding the train and we had no chance of getting on! Just before the train left, we jumped in the doorway of the first class wagon and that is where we remained for the rest of our trip. I would definitely recommend getting a seat in the second class because first class will isolate you from experiencing the ride to its fullest. From the doorway, we saw the scenery change every once in a while. We would be looking at farms, villages, old bridges and tunnels, misty forests and vast green tea plantations with busy workers waving to us from the fields. Remember, this is said to be the most scenic train journey in Asia.
From the station we took a tuk-tuk to our accommodation. Look no further than "Guest house Ella Hide View". The views from this place are surreal! We spent two nights here and would have stayed longer if we had time. Tip: disregard the locals at the station and main road offering rooms. It's best to get accommodation in the hills and avoid rooms in the center because of the noise, crowds and mediocre view. You will most probably have to pay for a tuk-tuk to take you to the center, but I think it's worth it.
Zovu je najlepša vožnja na svetu, možda zato što USTVARI i jeste! Ako ste uradili sve kako treba, sada sedite u drugoj klasi, grickate neko egzotično voće, zagrlili ste dragu i uživate u živopisnim predelima Šri Lanke. Posle nekih pet sati stižete u Ellu, sve oko Vas je drugačije. Ludilo i haos kojim ste bili okruženi do sada nestalo je. Sve je nekako sporije a Vi smireniji. Ignorišite smeštaj koji Vam nude lokalci u centru, uzmite tuk-tuk i krenite pravo ka Guest house Ella Hide View. Za 35 eura ovakav pogled nećete naći više nigde na Svetu. Kada dođete sebi od pogleda iz Vaše spavaće sobe, vratite se u centar i idite u mali ulični restoran Raha. Nedozvolite da Vas izgled zavara, već pustite da njihov kottu roti priča sam za sebe. Posle toga naručite kurd sa medom – fantastičan je.
Apart from the train ride, we came to Ella to do a bit of hiking. Ella town is the best base for anyone looking to do a bit of trekking around the hills and green valleys. The first day we took a hike to Ella Rock. We would have gone to Little Adam's Peak if we had time, as well. The hike will take you about 3-5 hours in total, depending on your pace and time you make for soaking in the views. The path takes you through a railway, bridge, tea plantation and farms. The track is good for beginners (like myself) and you definitely don't need a guide! Just ask the locals for instructions or print out the maps below.
We bought some lunch at a small street food stall called "Raha". It's located right across the Info point station on the main road. They have a very charismatic cook who makes the best Kottu Roti. For dessert, try their curd & honey. Basically, everything here is cheap and delicious. If you want something a bit more refined, the best restaurant in Ella is Cafe Chill. It's a stylish roadside cafe-bar-restaurant expanding over three floors, offering Western and delicious modern local dishes. They have espresso coffee as well! True coffee drinkers will appreciate this at this point in your trip, as most places in Sri Lanka offer only filter coffee.
We bought some lunch at a small street food stall called "Raha". It's located right across the Info point station on the main road. They have a very charismatic cook who makes the best Kottu Roti. For dessert, try their curd & honey. Basically, everything here is cheap and delicious. If you want something a bit more refined, the best restaurant in Ella is Cafe Chill. It's a stylish roadside cafe-bar-restaurant expanding over three floors, offering Western and delicious modern local dishes. They have espresso coffee as well! True coffee drinkers will appreciate this at this point in your trip, as most places in Sri Lanka offer only filter coffee.
Sledeći dan rezervišite na šetanje i planinarenje. Na raspolaganju Vam je pregršt ruta, a mi smo se zbog vremena kojim smo raspolagali odlučili da osvojimo Ella Rock. Početak rute je prilično lak i prati prugu. Kokos sa slamkom, zajedno sa patikama i rotijem iz Raha spadaju u obaveznu opremu. Posle pruge, zastaje Vam dah, što od uspona, što od neverovatnih prizora koji Vas očekuju. Ručak na 2000m je nešto što morate da uradite. Uveče, počastite sebe i voljenu osobu večerom u Cafe Chill – usluga im je na zaista zavidnom nivou a hrana odlična.
The next day we took a tuk-tuk to Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory. Becuase it was a Sunday, the factory wasn't working in full capacity so we only got a tour around the premises. We were satisfied that we got to see the factory and learn about tea history and manufacturing process. This is a chance for you to buy some real green or black tea. After all, this is where all of the brand names get their tea (Lipton, Milford...), but then add who knows what to make a better profit.
Nezaobilazan deo svake posete ovom regionu jeste i poseta lokalnoj fabrici čaja. Mi smo se odlučili za fabriku Uva Halpewatte. Iznajmite tuk-tuk (ova vožnja koštaće Vas oko 1000 LKR) i uzmite turu u fabrici. Iako pogon u fabrici nedljom ne radi (pogodite koji smo mi dan došli) i dalje Vam je na raspolaganju njihov sjajan vodič koji će Vas sigurno naučiti nešto novo o Vašem (drugom) omiljenom toplom napitku. Bez kile čaja ne napuštajte fabriku.
Tangalle Beach
We chose to go to Tangalle Beach because we read it was less crowded than the other more popular beaches. Even though it was high season, we sometimes felt like on a deserted island. Not a lot of people at all.
We stayed at "Shehani Beach Bungalow". Of course there is a vast option of accommodation but we chose something cheaper that allowed us to rent a scooter and explore a bit of the area. It was also right on the beach so we would be falling asleep and waking up to the sound of the ocean. Driving a scooter alongside the locals is also something I recommend you do (they drive on the opposite side of the road - yes, it is the opposite, I'm sorry).
We chose to go to Tangalle Beach because we read it was less crowded than the other more popular beaches. Even though it was high season, we sometimes felt like on a deserted island. Not a lot of people at all.
We stayed at "Shehani Beach Bungalow". Of course there is a vast option of accommodation but we chose something cheaper that allowed us to rent a scooter and explore a bit of the area. It was also right on the beach so we would be falling asleep and waking up to the sound of the ocean. Driving a scooter alongside the locals is also something I recommend you do (they drive on the opposite side of the road - yes, it is the opposite, I'm sorry).
Po mojem ličnom mišljenju postoje dve varijante posete Cejlonu. Jedna od njih je opisana u tekstu iznad i biće to jedna od najboljih avantura Vašeg života. Druga varijanta predstavlja dve nedelje izležavanja na plaži, što je samo po sebi ok, ali postaje magično kada su to neke od najlepših plaža Sveta.
Postoji pregršt opcija, ali mi smo se odlučili za Tangalle – nismo pogrešili. Ako ćete negde dati više novca za smeštaj neka to bude ovde. Neka Vas umesto alarma nekoliko narednih dana bude talasi Indijskog okeana. To ćete sigurno dobiti kod Shehanija.
Postoji pregršt opcija, ali mi smo se odlučili za Tangalle – nismo pogrešili. Ako ćete negde dati više novca za smeštaj neka to bude ovde. Neka Vas umesto alarma nekoliko narednih dana bude talasi Indijskog okeana. To ćete sigurno dobiti kod Shehanija.
We accidentally stumbled upon probably one of the most idilic beaches of Sri Lanka's coast. Part of the beach belongs to the Amanwella Luxury Resort, but you don't have to be their guest to chill on the sugary white sand beach. The water is so turquoise you won't need a filter. If we had discovered this beach earlier, this is where we would spend all 5 days. There is a small family run shabby restaurant where we had lunch and drinks. It was perfect. There was only us, a small foreign family and a guy selling fruit and sodas.
Bacite kofere, navucite kupaći i zatvorite vrata Vašeg bungalova jer plaža čeka. A ustvari ne čeka pošto ste već na plaži. Kada Vam dosadi ova plaža (kao da može da dosadi), iznajmite skuter i čeka Vas vetar u kosi. I još bolje plaže. Premda ovo zvuči nemoguće ali čekajte da vidite plažu Amanwella. Iako smo ovde došli greškom, bila je to najbolja greška koju smo mogli napraviti. Plaža pripada luksuznom istoimenom kompleksu, namenjenom bogatim rođacima gospode koja se voze prvom klasom železnica, ali i pored ovoga postoji deo ovog raja koji je namenjem i za Vaš ne-haute couture peškir. Svako od Vas sigurno ima svoju verziju i zamisao savršene plaže, ali Amanwella je toliko nadmašuje da Vas tera da posumnjate u mogućnosti Vaše mašte i shvatite da verovatno treba da preispitate i postavite nove standarde za princa/princezu na belom konju, nedeljnu supu i savršeno telo suprotnog pola.
Bacite kofere, navucite kupaći i zatvorite vrata Vašeg bungalova jer plaža čeka. A ustvari ne čeka pošto ste već na plaži. Kada Vam dosadi ova plaža (kao da može da dosadi), iznajmite skuter i čeka Vas vetar u kosi. I još bolje plaže. Premda ovo zvuči nemoguće ali čekajte da vidite plažu Amanwella. Iako smo ovde došli greškom, bila je to najbolja greška koju smo mogli napraviti. Plaža pripada luksuznom istoimenom kompleksu, namenjenom bogatim rođacima gospode koja se voze prvom klasom železnica, ali i pored ovoga postoji deo ovog raja koji je namenjem i za Vaš ne-haute couture peškir. Svako od Vas sigurno ima svoju verziju i zamisao savršene plaže, ali Amanwella je toliko nadmašuje da Vas tera da posumnjate u mogućnosti Vaše mašte i shvatite da verovatno treba da preispitate i postavite nove standarde za princa/princezu na belom konju, nedeljnu supu i savršeno telo suprotnog pola.
I had to leave for a UN conference in New York three days before Kristian. It was a hard departure after two weeks of togetherness, teamwork and reliance. I was so lucky to have gone through all the obstacles, highs and lows with him. I've traveled to a lot of places by myself, but I wouldn't have been able to handle Sri Lanka without him.
There are two ways you can visit Sri Lanka. Isolate yourself from the dirty, busy, noisy, smelly streets in a holiday resort or embrace the vibrant culture and breathtaking nature. At moments I wanted to cry. All I needed was hot water, a clean room, a spice-free meal, a haggle-free day, small things that I got so used to back home. Here they all seemed impossible to get. It's important to clear your mind of any expectations before taking a trip like this. Be prepared to not have basic amenities you're used to. Be prepared to get dirty. Be prepared for a trip of a lifetime. To see a different Sri Lanka than the one on the commercials. Remember, real life takes stage behind hotel resorts.
There are two ways you can visit Sri Lanka. Isolate yourself from the dirty, busy, noisy, smelly streets in a holiday resort or embrace the vibrant culture and breathtaking nature. At moments I wanted to cry. All I needed was hot water, a clean room, a spice-free meal, a haggle-free day, small things that I got so used to back home. Here they all seemed impossible to get. It's important to clear your mind of any expectations before taking a trip like this. Be prepared to not have basic amenities you're used to. Be prepared to get dirty. Be prepared for a trip of a lifetime. To see a different Sri Lanka than the one on the commercials. Remember, real life takes stage behind hotel resorts.
Njen poslednji dan pred odlazak u New York (ni manje ni više nego finalni govor konferencije UN). Tokom ove dve nedelje bilo je puno teških situacija, trenutaka kada ste opsovali ime ostrva na kome se nalazite, mrzeli sebe što ste naseli na popust i kupili kartu. Ovog dana tih sumnji više nema, svesni ste da je ovo bila jedna od najboljih odluka Vašeg života i da sedate pored osobe za koju bi ste sve dali. Shvatate kroz šta ste sve prošli, koliko ste porasli i jedva čekate novu avanturu!
Ako Vam se zadesi da Vam je potreban smeštaj u Negombu, bez trenutka razmišljanja, opredelite se za House of Dilly. Cene su odlične a Fernando će Vam redefinisati termin najboljeg domaćina.
Ako Vam se zadesi da Vam je potreban smeštaj u Negombu, bez trenutka razmišljanja, opredelite se za House of Dilly. Cene su odlične a Fernando će Vam redefinisati termin najboljeg domaćina.